396LMT-S No Voltage at the cradle connector

[Nielo]

hi All,
Newbie here. I have looked through older posts and I can't find anything similar to my problem so here we go:

I bought a 396LMT-S a little while ago. I installed it on my Multistrada and connected it directly to the battery. I had already charged the unit with the USB cable so I knew that was working fine.

The unit was not charging on the bike though. I measured the voltage over the little pins on the cradle but there was 0V.
I noticed that the cable was different to the cable that was shown in the manual. I have since learned that I have a later cable where the fuse is build-in with the 12V to 5V adaptor. I also read on the Garmin website that the fuse would reset if you disconnect it from power. Although I had done nothing to trigger the fuse I disconnected it anyway but even after a long time the fuse would not reset (if that was what was wrong in the first place).

I then went back to the shop and they swapped the cable for a new one. At home I connected the cable to a 12V battery charger and I measured the voltage over the little pins and it was 5V so all was good. When I connected the cable to the battery on the bike the same thing happened as before and there was no voltage over the little pins. Again I did not short anything so I have no idea what is going on. Currently there is no 5V over the little pins, not even when I remove it from the bike and try it again with the battery charger.

Should I not connect the cable directly to the battery?
Is there a trick to check the cable or force it to reset?
Any ideas?

Thanks for your help,

Nielo

[Totti]

Sorry to hear about Your problems.
It does not matter wether You connect it directly to the battery or by an ignition controlled terminal. The current is the same in both ways.
Although,by connecting directly to the battery, the voltage can occasionally be over 12V.
I have noticed that by connecting directly to the battery, the Zumo cradle’s transformer dies more quickly, since it’s always “on”.
Please check that You haven’t messed up the plus and minus.

Can’t help with resetting the cable. This is the first time me hearing that these even exist.

[msantibanez]

I changed my Garmin 396 from one bike to a new bike. The old bike never had issues, indeed I don't use the Garmin very often, however always works properly and was connected directly to the battery.

Now in the new bike, a 2016 Goldwing F6B, connected the Motorcycle power cable to the battery but never got more than 0,7 V in the cradle little pins and the little black box (converter from 12v to 5V ) in no more than 2 minutes was very hot, I have not doubt, it is damaged and time to replace the whole Cable with new converter and the noise filter as is sold by Garmin, I got the whole set for $5 less in Amazon, I will get it next week and cannot wait to check if it works or not (?). Search in Amazon: Garmin Zumo Motorcycle GPS Power Cable (Compatible with Zoom 350LM, 390LM and 395LM )

Good luck guys

[Fxwheels]

hi All,
Newbie here. I have looked through older posts and I can't find anything similar to my problem so here we go:

I bought a 396LMT-S a little while ago. I installed it on my Multistrada and connected it directly to the battery. I had already charged the unit with the USB cable so I knew that was working fine.

The unit was not charging on the bike though. I measured the voltage over the little pins on the cradle but there was 0V.
I noticed that the cable was different to the cable that was shown in the manual. I have since learned that I have a later cable where the fuse is build-in with the 12V to 5V adaptor. I also read on the Garmin website that the fuse would reset if you disconnect it from power. Although I had done nothing to trigger the fuse I disconnected it anyway but even after a long time the fuse would not reset (if that was what was wrong in the first place).

I then went back to the shop and they swapped the cable for a new one. At home I connected the cable to a 12V battery charger and I measured the voltage over the little pins and it was 5V so all was good. When I connected the cable to the battery on the bike the same thing happened as before and there was no voltage over the little pins. Again I did not short anything so I have no idea what is going on. Currently there is no 5V over the little pins, not even when I remove it from the bike and try it again with the battery charger.

Should I not connect the cable directly to the battery?
Is there a trick to check the cable or force it to reset?
Any ideas?

Thanks for your help,

Nielo

Have you solved this?

[Wallace]

Not quite related but this may be interesting to anyone trying to fathom out a connection problem.

The USB delivers 5V,the Garmin USB delivers 5V between 0.25A at idle revs and about 0.7A at 70 mph.
I tried a generic 12V USB charger and I was getting a lot more stable charging current.
Charging from flat is about 1.5 amp.

I'm of the opinion that the Garmin USB charger is not as good as it should be and that my problem of intermittent loss of power lies with the cradle connection pins.

[Fxwheels]

It can be pins or less power supply than it needs, but I gave up and using the USB cable. Had enough aggravations with it.

[Wallace]

My money is on the pins. Pin money??

The next step is to make a proper set of contact pins, I will probably have to modify the cradle at some point or buy a 3D printer and learn a new skill set.

[Wallace]

With the intention that this may be useful to anyone else suffering a similar problem...

I ordered up a set of pogo-pins with the intention of making a new power connection for the Garmin cradle and then had a good close look at the cradle plug on the three old sets of USB power supplies for the Garmin and I've discovered that it is the pins themselves that are wearing out.
That's were the problem lies!

When new the pins have rounded brass contacts and at least one pin on the scrap USB cables have one flattened head.

So one way would be to build up the pads on the back of the 396 with M.A.D Electrically Conducting Pcb Paint another would be to use Electrical Conductive Adhesive Glue on the pads.
I did try car rear screen windscreen repair paint, which may be the same as the first option, a while ago, so maybe the glue could be a better bet.

I've gone with the glue, I'll let you know if it works.

QED I suppose.

[twowheelstom]

I've gone with the glue, I'll let you know if it works.

how did it work out, did it work?

[Wallace]

I got the conductive paint last week, the contacts were thoroughly degreased and painted then left to heat cure and that is as far as it has gone.
The weather here has been bitterly cold and wet so I'm desperate for a good day to get out on the bike and give it a try.

I am also giving it serious thought to opening up a worn USB cable to see what is inside, to figure if the pins themselves can be replaced.

Oh how the road to Hell is paved with good intentions!