Zumo XT won't power from switched source

[Gunslinger4u]

My new Zumo XT works great when the included harness is direct wired to the battery (on my Victory Vision Tour). However, when I wire the cradle harness to a 12V switched power source, there is no power at the cradle pins. I have verified voltage on the Garmin harness side of the switched power connector. It just won't go through the little converter for some reason. Any ideas?

[MotoToph]

The common denominator is your power source. Have you used another switched source?

[danham]

Is there a reason you need switched power? With a healthy battery on your bike, there is no problem having it wired direct to your battery, within reason. Lunch stops with the GPS in place but turned off (if you trust your fellow man) are no sweat. Overnight, not recommended, but unless your battery is depleted, you can probably get away with it. With the XT removed from the mount, the draw on your battery is less than your clock or computer. If you are parked for weeks, then a battery tender is a good idea anyway.

-dan

[Grabcon]

I connect all accessories thru a FuzeBlock, https://www.fuzeblocks.com, this is whether they are switched or unswitched. It just keeps all wiring clean plus all things are fused at one location. It is also very easy to change from switched to unswitched by changing the fuse position. Another advantage is that the battery posts now have limited connections, just one going to the FuzeBlock.

I have found on several of past motorcycles that the factory switched accessory lead allows for one connection, typically heated grips.

[TripleThreat719]

I power my accessories on my bike with a Rowe Electronics PDM60 https://www.rowe-electronics.com/pdm60.

This is a completely programmable solution, capable of handling up to a 60 amp total power draw. It has 6 different circuits and each can be programmed for specific amperage limits, startup and shutdown delay times, as well as whether the circuit is activated by an ignition or ground trigger. It’s a really trick unit that eliminates fuses for each individual circuit because the device functions like a circuit breaker.

You have a ton of control over how each circuit acts. You are limited to a total of 60 Amps with 15 Amps Maximum constant draw (circuit 5 can accept up to a 20 Amp temporary draw with a 15 AMP continuous).

I have my two GPS circuits set for 5 amps with a 120 second delay off, which gives me 2 minutes after stopping to fiddle with my GPS before it loses power from the motorcycle battery and initiates the automatic message to start shutting down unless you press a button.

Circuit 3 is set up for a USB Charging port. Circuit 4 is set up for Powerlet Outlet. Circuit 5 is set up for my heated gear mini coax connection, and I have Circuit 6 inactive.

[Gunslinger4u]

Thanks for the suggestion. Garmin is sending me another wiring harness. It should go without saying why it would be desirable to have the GPS on a switched power source.

[Fxwheels]

I had the same problem with direct connection to the battery as well as to 12v socket (US and DIN socket). Connected directly to a 3A USB using just a USB cable (no cradle) and works great. Maybe if to connect the USB input to the wires coming out of a cradle and then plug into the same USB port, it would work too, but I didn't bother to experiment.

[danham]

It should go without saying why it would be desirable to have the GPS on a switched power source.

I'm curious. Why? If you are worried about forgetting that the XT is on, then when you switch off it will go to "sleep," which can still run its battery down a lot faster than if you turn the XT all the way off. I have never wired a GPS to switched power. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but earlier models would shut all the way down while the rider was pumping gas and his buddies would be heading off while he was waiting for his GPS to boot up. With the XT I don't see any big reason to favor one way over the other.

-dan

[rbentnail]

Electronics can be some goofy stuff. Sometimes solid state relays (SSR) won't switch because there isn't enough electrical load on them. Kind of like replacing regular light bulbs with LEDs- they often will not work correctly without some other means applied. If you wanna go brain dead, research source and sink switching. A new cord may help.

I'd ignore all the folks who want to tell you you're doing it wrong by using switched power. It makes sense to me too.

[Gunslinger4u]

Thanks Russ.